Ross Island, located in the Andaman archipelago, was for a long time the centre of British administration in this remote part of India. Today, the island lies in ruins, with centuries-old Banyan trees slowly taking over its buildings.
History of Ross Island
Between 1789 and 1792, a hospital and sanatorium were built on nearby Ross Island. However, the island only assumed a crucial role after the Indian Rebellion of 1857, when it became a penal colony for Indian rebels. The aim was twofold: to isolate these prisoners from other inmates and to send a clear message that anyone who defied British authority would suffer the same fate.
On 6 March 1858, Captain (Dr) James Pattison Walker arrived at Port Blair with 773 criminal convicts, including four officials from Singapore. Walker, an experienced jailer, was specialised in handling ‘’troublesome‘’ criminals. About 200 revolutionaries were deported to the Andaman Islands; the ship carrying them sailed from Calcutta on 6 March and arrived in Port Blair on 10 March 1858. The prisoners were employed in the construction of administrative buildings, turning the island into the centre of the British government. The first bamboo barracks were gradually replaced by permanent structures, while on the northern summit of the island the bungalow (known as Government House) was built for the head of the penal settlement. This imposing building, with its sloping roof, had an elegant Italian tiled floor on the ground floor, of which only a few fragments remain today.
In 1872, the post of Island Superintendent was elevated to that of Chief Commissioner, a role first assigned to Sir Donald Martin Stewart, following the assassination of the Viceroy of India, Sir Richard Southwell Bourke, in Port Blair. Stewart held the post from July 1872 to June 1875.
After him, the island, now known as Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island, saw 24 Chief Commissioners take turns. However, it was during the tenure of Sir Charles Francis Waterfall that the administrative importance of the island collapsed. Waterfall, who was appointed Chief Commissioner in 1938, was captured by the Japanese in March 1942 when they invaded the Andaman and Nicobar Islands during World War II. While Waterfall was taken prisoner of war, his deputy, Major Bird, was beheaded by the Japanese at the Aberdeen Clock Tower in Port Blair.
Ross Island Literary
In the 1880s, a small periodical called the Ross Island Literary was published, containing stories and memoirs of the region’s early colonial days. The periodical, which was distributed in a shop at the northern end of the island, enjoyed some popularity for a short time.
The Earthquake
The violent earthquake in 1941, with an estimated magnitude between 7.7 and 8.1, led to the abandonment of the island, with the command offices being relocated to Port Blair.
Phenomena such as ground subsidence, soil liquefaction and sand volcanoes occurred, damaging infrastructure such as roads, bridges, embankments, jetties and quays. Large cracks opened up in the ground and numerous trees were uprooted.
Some sources claim that although the island had been hit by an earthquake about nine months before the Japanese occupation, the British evacuation of the Andaman was not due to the earthquake, but to the imminent threat of Japanese invasion during World War II.
The Japanese Occupation during World War II
In March 1942, the Japanese army invaded the Andaman Islands, occupying Ross Island without encountering much resistance. The locals initially welcomed the Japanese as liberators from British rule, but soon realised the harsh reality of the occupation. The Japanese fortified the island, building bunkers along the coast and using prisoners and civilians as forced labour to turn the island into a military base. The Japanese also resorted to brutal treatment of Ross residents, suspecting that they might reveal information to the enemy. During this period, Ross Island became the residence of the Japanese admiral and Subhas Chandra Bose, leader of the Indian independence movement, visited the island in December 1943, hoisting the Indian tricolour on Government House.
Post-war decline
After the Japanese surrender in 1945, Ross Island was reoccupied by the Allies, but never returned to its former glory. The 1941 earthquake had already caused significant damage, and the island was gradually abandoned. The once grand structures, such as the club, Presbyterian Church and official residences, fell into disrepair. The doors and windows were removed and reused in Port Blair, the inlaid panels of the club were planted in the halls of the Pradesh Council. Of all the antique furniture, made of the finest teak and rose wood, only a few pieces remain at the Raj Niwas in Port Blair. Meanwhile, nature began to reclaim the land, turning the island into a ghost town.
Revival as a tourist attraction
In 1979, the Indian Navy moved to the island, recognising the strategic importance of its location. The Navy opened Ross Island to visitors, pledging to preserve its historical heritage without altering its authenticity. In 1993, the ‘Smritika’ museum was opened, displaying photographs and artefacts from the past, offering tourists a glimpse into the island’s history.
Ross Island today
Today, visitors can stroll through the vegetation-shrouded ruins, observing the bazaar, bakery, warehouses, water treatment plant, tennis court, printing press, secretariat, hospital, cemetery, swimming pool, Chief Constable’s residence with its immense gardens and state ballrooms, Government House, Andamanese Home, and troop barracks, all in dilapidated condition, witnesses of the old British regime. The ruined structures, such as the Presbyterian Church with its Burmese teak windows and Italian stained glass, offer striking and photographic views. In addition, the island is home to animal species introduced during the British period, such as deer, peacocks and wild rabbits.
Entrance Fee and Duration
The entrance fee for Ross Island is 470 rupees for a tour lasting exactly 2 hours and 30 minutes. If you also want to visit North Bay, the total cost is 870 rupees and is about 6 hours in total.
Timetables and how to get to the Island
Ross Island is about 2 km east of Port Blair. To reach it, you must take a ferry from Aberdeen Pier in Port Blair. Ferries generally operate between 8.30am and 2.30pm, but checking the updated timetable before your visit is advisable.
Facilities on the Island
There are no overnight accommodation facilities on the island, but a small eatery offers snacks and drinks.
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